The first pic is before the bridging was stapled.
Floor joist underbuilt.
Fine circa 1500 chimney stack with rebuilt diagonal shafts.
Late c16 inserted first floor with moulded bridging joists and stop chamfered common joists.
If you ve got joists that are actually sagging the whole floor might be underbuilt.
And if i do sister does it have to be the whole length of the original joist.
Doug fir or syp 16 2x10 on 16 should be adequate but just barely.
Here is where the fun begins.
As you drive in the new screws be sure to stand or kneel on your deckboards to bring them as close as possible to the joists.
Subfloor is all 1 x 6 set on the diagonal.
Room where the floor is very unsolid.
From what you ve written i dont think your floor is underbuilt but that would depend on the species used for the joists.
I was at a client s house only to estimate a front door replacement but my eyes were drawn to the second story deck.
I d say if joists are sagged it is underbuilt anyway.
Original hardwood floor in great condition and i have been told the support is underbuilt.
Screws in addition to securing nails into the joists driving screws into your deckboards is one way to reinforce the strength of your deck.
Obviously the floor is severely underbuilt.
I notch the joists the same distance from the underside of the subfloor so the lvl s will carry them evenly and straighten up the floor.
In the end its your house make it the way you like it.
I m taking the time to shore up some sagging joists but i m wondering what i can do to fix the squeaky floors in the rooms above.
When dealing with a floor joist is it code to replace or can i sister the joists that need repair.
From a distance i could see that the joists weren t supported by a regular beam but were attached to a single rim joist that in turn was nailed only to the side of the 4 4 posts.
You can see in the last pic that the field joists are shorter.
To the rear of the west wing is a 2 storey late c19 wing in brick part painted.